Posts Tagged ‘dancing’
• China
We walked into a giant tent in the downtown section of the Moxi village and were greeted by the smiling faces of dozens of Tibetan families. As a group of over 30 lao wais, it felt a little strange to be crashing their party, but they had invited us to see a little bit of traditional Tibetan culture.
Moxi is one of many villages that falls within the Tibetan regions of the Sichuan province. Although technically Chinese, people in these villages are Tibetan and still uphold their traditions and speak the Tibetan language. Young girls dressed in traditional garb draped white scarves over us and welcomed us with “Tashi Delek!” Tibetan for hello.
The emcee quickly appeared and pumped up the crowd for the night ahead. Then came the singing and dancing. Performers shouted into microphones and then grabbed their friends out of the crowd to join them in traditional circle dances. Each performance was followed by a toast with traditional barley wine, which tasted like bad vodka and made my stomach churn.
For a while we just sat and watched, feeling more like foreigners than I had throughout my China stay. But then I heard the emcee shout about our “friends from the west” and before I could grasp what was happening, all 30 of us had been scooped up into the circle and were struggling to keep up with the lively dance.
I speak zero Tibetan and I know almost nothing about their culture, but I hadn’t laughed so hard in a long time and I felt surprisingly comfortable in their presence. I still don’t know if the party was a tourist trap, put on specifically for us, or if it really was tradition and they allowed us to be a part of it. Either way, I felt honored and excited to be included. Not many can say they’ve partied with Tibetans.
This past week was Toussaint, or All Saint’s Day, so many classes were cancelled for vacation. While I got a brief reprieve from the Sorbonne, my host siblings were off for almost two weeks, so my host family went to their country home in the Bretagne region for about a week. It might have had something to do with the weekend I had just spent with my actual parents, or the fact that I can’t cook to save my life, but this marked one of the first times since arriving in France that I had felt truly homesick—whether for New Jersey, Evanston, or my Parisian family, I could not be sure. Though I know many others who live independently while abroad, it felt strange to me to be living in a foreign country without the semblance of a family to come home to. Sure, a host family provides a room and meals, but it is the comfort that I have felt while living with them that truly makes them a family. My host family has been nothing but amazing since I arrived, two weeks into my Paris stay and slightly jaded from the home stay process. Perhaps some of my fondest memories of Paris are from experiences we’ve shared together.
Since I had arrived, my host father had often told me the best way to see Paris was by car and that he intended to take me for a drive. After a couple weeks had passed, I assumed that, with his long work hours, it just wasn’t going to happen. So, imagine my surprise when he asked me the following Monday if I was free that evening. We hopped in the car around ten p.m. (the usual hour we finish eating dinner); what followed was indescribable. I had seen Midnight in Paris this summer and found it, although charming, not without its cheesy clichés. However, when my host father turned on a classical radio station and we crossed over the Pont Neuf, one of my favorite bridges, I felt instantly transported to another time. In Midnight in Paris, Owen Wilson’s character says there is nothing better than Paris in the rain. Well, I would counter that by saying everything is illuminated when you are in Paris by night. Traveling by car allowed me to see things I had never had access to by metro. When we arrived at a neighborhood I hadn’t seen much of before, he insisted we get out and walk around by foot. Passing through chic quarters like the 16th arrondisement, he would point out the best restaurants (ones I will probably never afford) or tell me a historical significance behind a sign or a fountain. Seeing Ile de la Cité’s Notre Dame glowing against the night sky was one of the highlights; equally interesting was climbing up the stairs to the Bibliotheque Francois Mitterand. It was a modern library made to look like open books, which reminded me, albeit subtly, of the University Library back in Evanston. Other than shared dinners, I had never spent much time with my host father; this drive proved to be an adventure that showed me another side of Paris, and a fun and goofy side of my host father.
My host mother Isabel, on the other hand, has given me the gift of conversation. Recently, she decided to go back to work, but this time, for an English company. In anticipation of the interview process, she had been working overtime to prepare. One of the ways she did this was to meet with a group of friends once a week to discuss the news in English over tea and cookies. When their English instructor cancelled for the day, she asked if I would like to take her place. I definitely got a kick out of correcting other people’s grammar, especially since my host mother does it all the time to me. It made me realize how awkward I sound when I use the wrong verb tenses or pronouns in French. Of course, Isabel landed the job, so we don’t spend as much time around the house together as before. However, she said if I ever want to strike up a conversation just to practice French—a luxury I’ll never have when I get home—to just let her know.
Since Constance and Pierre-Louis are the same age as my siblings back home, it sometimes feels like they are my actual sister and brother. Since they are busy with school, Scouts, and work, we often come together over dinner. Dinner conversations are often rushed, despite the many courses Isabel somehow finds time to make. It is not clear how we plow through bread, pate, salad, meat, any number of sides, cheese, fruit and the odd desert in about an hour’s time. In all this, Pierre-Louis and Constance manage to fully debrief about their days, create several inside jokes and make passive-aggressive attempts to be rude at the table. Their dad and I find it hilarious, while Isabel, who considers manners of the utmost importance, is horrified. I try to solace her with the fact that my brother often leaves in the middle of dinner to get back to his video games, only realizing halfway through how much I am perpetuating the American stereotype.
As we finish up dinner, Pierre-Louis puts on some music, often an American band, or shows me a funny video. It’s surprising to me how much overlaps between American and French culture, or at least the extent of what is remade. He talked about a series with a dog named Dingo for about ten minutes until I realized he meant Goofy, the Disney character. Apparently, the word “dingue” in French means silly, so the name change makes more sense to French viewers. Another time, the family laughed for what seemed like forever about a character named Fifi Brindacier; I only joined in after the video revealed a girl with orange braided pigtails- our beloved Pippi Longstocking.
Needless to say, it was strange playing house all by myself while they were gone. While I did perfect my omelet recipe and feel free to blast my music for once, I eagerly awaited their return the following Sunday. When they did walk through the door, I felt they had missed me a little too. We reunited with the typical bise (double-cheeked kiss). I could see that leaving in December will be harder than I first expected.
In a lot of ways, I’ve been a bad study abroad student lately. After all the commotion and culture shock of the first half of the semester, and after finally finding a good daily routine to stick to, I will admit that I have gotten comfortably sucked in to following my schedule. It is almost like being on campus and feeling the security of having specific times for class, homework, the gym, friends, and lounging…. except this is just happening for me in a huge city where everyone speaks Spanish. But that aside, my point is that I have successfully adjusted and now fear that I’m slacking a little in the “explore new things” department.
Here’s just one example: I have been in Buenos Aires for exactly 86 days now (yes, I have been counting), and it wasn’t until a couple of days ago that I saw tango for the first time. I am ashamed. To name only a few more, I still haven’t gone to the Recoleta cemetery (that is where Eva Perón is buried, for all you history buffs), I haven’t visited the famous San Telmo market on Sundays, I haven’t been to the brightly painted Boca neighborhood, and I still haven’t gone to a soccer match. Believe me, they are all on the top of my list. However, it is also sometimes a challenge to think about going to all of these when also spending hours going back and forth between classes each day and trying to figure out how to maneuver public transportation to get across town. I guess I would also say I am so in love with my neighborhood, Palermo Soho, that in my free time I often just feel like strolling around here or sitting at a café for a while.
The good news is that my neighborhood is helping me out. Down the street from me is a lively, cheerful plaza surrounded by shops restaurants and bookstores. Every weekend, local artists set up booths in the plaza and crowds come and go all day long to shop, eat or people watch. This has quickly become my go-to place. By chance, this past weekend some tango dancers decided to take advantage of the beautiful springtime weather to put on a free public show. Tango, check! Thanks, Palermo.
Also by chance, I had a camera with me this one time and am therefore passing along a clip of what I saw. The dancing may not be up to par with what you might find in a tango bar (although, how would I know), but I am at least glad to have finally seen any tango at all. So for those of you who are also new to this dance, enjoy watching this beautiful part of Argentine culture with me, and I am making a promise to you now that I will get better about checking all those other things off my list.
This past weekend I had the unique and exciting opportunity to attend a Ghanaian wedding. My friend Zwart was visiting her hometown for the weekend to see her two friends from childhood get married. She invited me to join her on the 10-hour adventure to her hometown, Dormaa, in central-western Ghana, on the border of the Ivory Coast. I quickly and eagerly accepted, not really knowing what I had gotten myself into. However, that has been a common theme in my study abroad experience thus far.
Friday we headed out on our adventure. We thought our bus was leaving at noon, however after some miscommunications became clear, we realized our bus would not leave until six. This meant that we would not arrive in Dormaa until 3 am. Let the adventure begin! About an hour into our bus ride we were stopped on the road because of a car accident much ahead of us. However, the funny and frustrating thing about Ghana is that there is usually only one road to the place you are going. So after a three-hour wait, our bus driver hopped the median and began to drive on a semi-road dirt path. We eventually got to Dormaa at 6 am as the town was just waking up. No sleep for me that night, but hey, that is part of the adventure right?
I met Zwart’s large extended family, most of who did not speak English. There were a lot of smiles and handshakes, which easily transcend language barriers I have learned. Her two-year old cousin Kofi had never even seen a white person before. After staring at me for thirty minutes and continually touching my skin, he warmed up to me and we began to play some football. After being fed multiple times by Zwart’s mother, we headed to the wedding.
The three-hour ceremony was the happiest and most energetic wedding I had ever attended. The wedding began with a procession of uniformed children, representing the tribe that the bride belonged to. There was a lot of music, singing, dancing, and praising the good Lord. Most of the ceremony was in Twi, so I had Zwart translate some of it for me. The exchanging of wedding vows was very similar to an American wedding, except for the lack of English. The bride wore a beautiful white silk dress, but most members of the audience wore traditional African clothes. There was more singing, dancing, and then the presentation of the gifts to the couple. In Ghana, the wedding reception is not a big deal, and therefore the gifts are given to the new couple in front of the congregation. Zwart made me go up with her to give her gift, and everyone was amused by the oburoni at the wedding. Yes, I was the only white person at the wedding, and probably the entire town, all part of the adventure.
After the wedding I came back to Zwart’s house and played with her adorable younger cousins while her older cousins pounded cassava to make fufu for our evening meal. After indulging in a large bowl of fufu and soup, Zwart and I left her home to go catch the 7:30 pm bus back to Accra. We arrived back at 4 am, road weary and a little smelly.
My weekend was invaluable in my opinion. Though I was only in Dormaa for thirteen hours, I felt like I witnessed so many customs and traditions. Interacting with Zwart’s family was wonderful and attending the wedding was incredible. My weekend was rich with culture, and I am so thankful for my Ghanaian friend Zwart who teaches me new things about Ghana and life everyday.
That’s right, I finally got to meet the Argentine equivalent of a cowboy, the gaucho! OK, so the truth is I didn’t have to ride a horse out into the Pampas to find one of them broodingly herding cattle, drinking Maté, and eating a steak (that will hopefully come later!). Instead, I went to the southern end of Buenos Aires to the neighborhood of Mataderos where the gaucho culture can still be found. It may also be a little misleading for me to call a Sunday afternoon fair “partying,” but the people all around (including myself), were definitely enjoying the weekend out and about.
Every Sunday this neighborhood holds the Feria de Mataderos, which is a street fair with music, dancing, horseback riding, llamas?, open grills called “parillas”, and lots of leather, wood and ceramic crafts to buy… Not to mention live, burly gauchos just casually walking around in all their swag.
Thanks to the weather finally warming up, it was the perfect way to spend a couple of hours outside. Besides shopping for maté cups, jars, leather belts, bracelets, wooden spoons, or ponchos, we grabbed some tamales and watched as groups of locals danced to live guitar music. We also mused at the enormous quantities of meat being grilled, some of which looked like whole armadillos on a spit. Although we didn’t get to see every part of the fair, some of the people told us about other traditional, gaucho activities that they usually demonstrate.
One of them involves riding a horse with a stick in hand (think Argentine jousting), and trying to catch a suspended ring on the end of the stick. Apparently, if the man is successful, he gets to give the ring to a lady in the crowd as a prize, and in return she gives him a kiss. That’s right ladies, this may be your key to nabbing a smoldering Argentine cowboy. Or maybe not; legend has it that gauchos generally care more for their horse and their cattle than for any woman. Ah well, better luck at a tango competition perhaps?
Besides that there was also a thoroughly enjoyable scarf dance, among the many other things that we saw (check out the video above if you like the sound of that!), and to top it all off we got some homemade alfajors at the end of the day, which are basically cookie sandwiches filled with dulce de leche. Not too shabby.
Dancing at the Taj Mahal from The 195 on Vimeo.
TAJ MAHAL!!! It felt as if I jumped into a picture frame, Blues Clues style. (Blue-Skidoo, we can too!) I planned beforehand to make an attempt of this video, hence the purple and white outfit. However, it ended up turning into a ridiculous dance party. Watch this video five times, focusing on only one of the following each time:
1. The stylish-haired man on the left attempts to strut past us, sees us break out into sweet moves, then decides to stay back.
2. The random Korean kid taking a photo in the background can’t help but join (just kidding, Ryan!)
3. Dan (doing the one-finger twist in the brown shirt) and Abby (green kurta doing the white-girl) continue dancing after the thunder god displays his wrath.
4. The thunderclap occurs exactly as I show him my attitude, complete with hand-on-hip motion.
5. Both Josh’s (one in blue and one in white) get a little TOO jiggy with it.
Knocked down one wonder of the world, only six more to go!
When you’re about to leave a place, you’re often not sure how such a place will affect you going forward. It’s only until you cross that threshold – that still lingers even weeks, months, years afterward – that it starts to sink in, and you come to realize the immensity of the experience that just made an imprint on your life. Having only left Uganda two days ago (now in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia – another post to come…), I’m only starting to get a glimpse of what readjusting to life will be like, and how hard it really might be to process in the months to come.
Having come in with few expectations, I was bombarded with all that was new, and now loved – culture, food, music, dance moves – and learned more every day than I ever could have in a classroom. The people I met, the things I observed, the conversations I had, the challenges I faced – every single moment was something to remember, and are those I hope will never get lost with distance in both time and space. My research made me want to only ask more questions about a topic that I’m passionate about, and my experience only makes me want to come back to Uganda.
Just a few things I’ll miss from my home away from home (not an exhaustive list, whatsoever):
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, and dancing literally all the time
Greeting people in Acholi
Chapati, although I will be making them at home
Not having an excuse (i.e. red dirt) for my feet to be dirty
The Ugandan accent (yes, “Eh!” has slowly made its way into my vocabulary)
Being greeted and welcomed with open arms everywhere I go
Mangoes everywhere, all the time
Bartending and dancing like a fiend at my favorite local bar
Sleeping under a mosquito net
Being accepted for who, not what, you are
Having another place, half-way across the world, to call home to
Uganda is no longer just lines on a map, or a geographical space filled only by painful colonial history read about in books. It is a place where people exist, people live, laugh, love, and dance, and it’s a place that welcomed me. It has its fair share of problems as a country – as every one (yes, including the U.S.) does – but I have been lucky enough to experience, and now have the chance to remember, the vibrancy and resilience of its people. As a good friend of mine said to me before I left, “I hope this is the most stimulating experience you will have in your life thus far.” I could not be happier to say that exceeded that prediction, and I can only hope for more opportunities like this one to come my way in the future.
Last weekend was Holi, the Indian festival of color. The importance of Holi changes depending on whom you ask. Some will tell you the religious significance. Some, like my Hindi professor at Northwestern, will tell you it’s an excuse for young girls and boys to touch each other. Others say it is a holiday of release, a get-out-of-jail-free card to act as you wish. What people can agree on is that it is a day to throw colored powder on one another, dance, and generally have a great time. It’s essentially the best nationwide water fight you’ve ever been in. It’s celebrated more in the North, so we headed to Jaipur for the long weekend.
When we got to Jaipur, we had similarly mixed answers on whether celebrating in the streets would be safe. Some adults had told us horror stories of groping men and ripped clothes. The front desk of our hotel told us we should head to the Old City and it would be a fantastic day. In the end, we listened to the endless online forums and decided to play it safe. A friend on the SIT-Jaipur program invited us to join their holiday at a nearby hotel, a little American student enclave from what we were told would be chaos.
In the morning, with that buzzy child on christmas morning excitement, we dressed in shabby clothes. We headed to the roof to survey what we thought would be insanity. But craziness it wasn’t. Rickshaws were running. Streets were mainly empty. What we did see were a group of young boys playing in front of a temporary housing community built on a construction site. There was nothing intimidating about young boys, so a group of us went with our bags of color to play. We jumped the low cement wall. At first they seemed a bit taken aback, but when the saw the powders they grabbed the hose. Soon their parents decided to stop yelling at them to get back into the house and instead joined in. Fathers snuck up behind us and covered us in pink powder, while mothers and sisters laughed from the side. We would all yell Holi hai! (it’s Holi!) every time someone was particularly covered. My mouth was chalky with the taste of powder and my bare feet stung. Being India, it wasn’t long before the music started. I laughed when the mother told me in Hindi that we were all very good dancers. The throng of similarly-colored Indian men that gathered on the wall to watch seemed to agree.
The small now-purple grandfather disappeared into his home, only to return holding a guinea pig. We all cheered, Holi Hai! yet again and continued to dance. We cheered in that infectious way, drunk on sun and enthusiasm. In that way that at the time seems so natural, and only later you think to ask, “Wait. Why the hell was there a guinea pig?”
Walking back home from school the other day, I greeted a woman in Acholi walking in the same direction, baby strapped to her back, steering a bicycle. After laughing at my attempt at her language, we started a conversation in broken English, and she shared with me a story that made my mind stall as we continued down the road. A single mother of seven, her eldest son just passed his Senior Two exams (equivalent to our ninth grade), but as of this year she is unable to send any of her children to school because she can’t even pay the annual school fee of $150 needed to send just one of them. As we spoke, she was on the way to the small market nearby to buy potatoes that she would later sell in town for as much of a profit she could. This would be the money she’d use to feed her family, the rest she would save for future school fees.
This is just one of the many stories I’ve heard since I’ve been here – the single mother of seven, the eighteen-year-old boy abducted into the bush for three years, a twenty-two-year-old girl confined to a wheelchair due to rebels’ stray bullets. Or my host mother in Kitgum (a town about an hour north), uprooted from Gulu after her husband died two years ago, who still has not received her late husband’s pension, unable to send four of her five dependants to school. These are stories you hear all the time, and you can guarantee that every single person you meet here has one like it.
Contrast these stories to what happened the next day: wandering through the market in Gulutown, a few other students and I came across a group of women dancing a traditional Acholi funeral dance, although not for a funeral, just for fun. Having stopped to watch them, about to move on, they waved us over to join them, strapped shells to our ankles, and threw us into the drumbeat pounding from the center of their circle. Not only could I have loved that moment for the dancing alone, but I also couldn’t help but think that these women, smiling and laughing as much as I was that afternoon, are the same people that have lost loved ones, forced from their homes just five years before. In Kitgum as well, an area that was hit even harder during the conflict, the people breathe in more life, feel more blessed, and are more welcoming than anyone I’ve ever met (and dance just as well!).
For a people who have suffered more than anyone of us could imagine – through endless violence and loss, still unable to send their kids to school – they open their homes and hearts wider than what they have, and laugh and dance like none of that even matter. It’s inspiring to see and be a part of, and what makes the Acholi people who they are. I just can’t wait to keep dancing.
I was hit by a moped today. I was trying to cross a one-way street, but two teenagers on a two-wheeler were looking for a parking space in the opposite direction. I smashed right into them. The bruise is healing nicely. It was bound to happen in a country where stoplights are suggestions and pedestrians speed bumps.
I was en route to Fergusson College campus, where they were having Traditional Day. Students wear the traditional clothes of their state in India. Boys in orange turbans and girls in jewel-toned scarves and heels clustered, laughing and taking pictures. As I left Public Health, I was overtaken by a jeep of boys in dhotis. They were followed by an ox-drawn cart of yelling 17-year-olds. They rode to Kimaya, the outdoor pavilion on campus, where a sea of Fergusson students had gathered. An unseen speaker started pumping vaguely familiar Bhangra beats. The mass of students started to pulse. I can’t think of any situation in America where that many students, male and female, would gather and dance soberly with so much enthusiasm. We started by watching from behind a tree, before an overeager guy in a white kurta asked us to dance. We were pulled – literally – into the crowd, and 16-year-olds in salwar kameez started teaching us the proper moves. (Cell phone cameras recorded all of it. I’m sure there’s an entire YouTube channel now for “White Girls Attempt to Dance to Bollywood”). They were most excited when the Sheila song started playing, and I knew all the words and appropriate dance moves. I know I made my 10-year-old host sister, and in-house bollywood dance instructor, proud.
Lesson no. 1 in India: look both ways before you cross – even on a one-way street.
Lesson no. 2: Get out from behind the tree. Say no to dates but yes to dancing.






